Wednesday, August 03, 2011

BUTTERICK 5538 – CONNIE CRAWFORD





HERE is the review. I did the muslin, and was shocked at how well it fit. The pattern says: "Modern Fit with Ready to Wear Sizing". I think this is close to true.

Lane Bryant was a godsend when I stopped garment sewing due to life being in the way for 4 years. Their Right Fit jeans were spot on.   I can buy a size 14 or sometimes 16 in their tops and shirts, and the shoulder is dead on, there is ample room in the bust, and there is even tummy room. The shirts typically don't hang off the back of my shoulder either. Almost perfection – and very well made. The Right Fit jeans in the yellow tag had a nice flat butt area and were my shape. Houston style dress pants, also made for less curvy yet larger women. Alas, they have discontinued the Right Fit sizing, so I may have to make jeans again.
Connie Crawford patterns incorporate a high round neck, tummy room, C cup, and square(er) shoulders. I am in alteration heaven, except of course for the broader shoulders and excess sleeve cap ease. I did do some weird adjustments that I won't do next time. On the bodice I cut the shoulder at XS, tapering to XL. I don't think I did this too narrow, so the problem must be the sleeve itself. I cut the sleeve cap at M and tapered to XL. I should have started with a L there, which would have resulted in a higher sleeve cap. My alteration did result in perfect easing of the cap, but the sleeve seems to be riding up on my arm, so I think it needs a little more cap up there.
As for the directions – I don't like the advice to crimp or ease stich the bust area between the notches. I find things go together much easier if you just do some snips on the smaller side of the two princess seams and put them together that way. Just don't confuse your snips with the pattern notch marks if you've snipped to mark those! I always mark those differently in this case.
But, all the pieces did go together very very well. Take out that doggone excess sleeve cap ease and you've got a great pattern.

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